From the temple to Instagram: this is how Shallah became Israel’s national carbohydrate

If you ask strangers about Jewish food, God is probably the first thing that comes to everyone’s mind,” says Yonet Naftali, food researcher and editor of “Food,” the culinary suite at “We”—the Museum of the Jewish People, whose activity focuses on Jewish food From all periods, this is perhaps the secret of the Sheleh, which has succeeded in being a traditional pastry, and at the same time, it is constantly renewed.

If you ask Eliezer Ben Yehuda, who revived the Hebrew language, about the origin of the word “Shalah,” he would answer that the origin of the name is the origin of the Khalal. The name probably came from the word “creator” because the classic shilling started as a round dough. The term “Shalah” appears in the Bible several times. And so in Asma’ 29 verse 2 it is written: “And the Matsah bread, in the book of Numbers 15:20 it is written: and in the book of 2 Samuel 6:19 it is written:

“Shaleh occupies an important place in the culinary history of the Jewish people,” says Naftali. “In the first sources, it is mainly about excreting God as his mitzvah that began in the Temple.” “After the house was demolished, a portion of the dough had to be set aside and given to the priests. But this mitzvah was valid only within the confines of the land.

Shella Key (Photo: Uri Shaft)
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In the 14th century, the first appearance of the challah recipe appeared in a Jewish cookbook. In his book The Encyclopedia of Jewish Food, American journalist Jill Marks wrote that Sephardic and Ashkenazim at that time ate flat bread on Shabbat in order to separate daily loaves of Shabbat loaves, which are called “blessed loaves” and only years later were called “Shallah”. “In Spanish societies, they sprinkled seeds on bread, to symbolize the manna that came down from heaven.”

Naftali notes that the types of flour Jews use to prepare shilleh has also changed over the years. “In the early Middle Ages, for example, white flour came into use on the Sabbath, and before that it was whole wheat flour,” she says. “This is what set the specific bread apart from the rest of the week. Flat bread appeared in the past without the familiar firing. The slow firing came to symbolize the 12 loaves that were in the temple.

Interesting are the detailed descriptions that explain how apple bread is different from black bread. Because the chile contains fat and eggs, substances that were considered expensive, but leave it fresh all weekend. There is a consensus that the braided shawl is an Austrian-German custom. In the past, an article was published about the Jews of Spain in which it was written that an initial recipe for braided bread appeared in a 13th century Islamic cookbook. The study claimed that firing was a Jewish invention that upgraded the original recipe. This claim somewhat undermines the propaganda that the braided shawl is an Ashkenazi invention.”

According to Naftali, each society has its own unique customs around the shele. For example, Ethiopian, Yemeni, and Indian Jews traditionally eat challah, but do not observe it on Shabbat. They make blessing on other sweet pastries. Georgians have a round sash on which wedding candles are placed on the eve of the number of years of the bride. If the groom dances with the shilling on the head of the bride’s mother and her salutations. The well-known custom of the spaniel is to bake the shilleh and add boiled eggs to it and then tear it from it. Legend has it that this is the Purim custom that “rips the evil Haman from his eyes.”

The prayers that have become popular in recent years are not associated with a particular congregation, but with a tradition that arises as a custom that helps finance priests. In exile, the custom became symbolic as a remembrance of the temple, and the practice of baking was always a custom believed by women. The main sweetener that appears in the week following Passover is usually for both Sephardic and Ashkenazi. “The main sauces that are baked on the first Sabbath after Passover are called Ashkenaz Shlissel,” explains Naftali. “The first mention of the chisel is in the Book of Pinchas. Some bake the shilleh in the form of a key, some print a key on God, and others put a key in the heart of the shilleh. The holiday.”

The hard way
Silla’s love for Uri Schifft, the baker behind “The Bread” bakery, started at a young age. “My mother was a kindergarten teacher, and I remember waiting every Friday to get sick, baking with the kids in the kindergarten,” he said in a conversation from Boston. “It was the pastry that symbolized the weekend for me. That childhood memory guided all my creations.”

Uri Shift (Photo: Con Paulos)Uri Shift (Photo: Con Paulos)

It has been 20 years since the creation of the bakery “Bread”, which eventually became a chain. “When I started making a business plan, I wrote in one of the lines that I wanted to create ‘Abu Alafia Gourmet,’ and so it was,” he says. “After studying in Denmark, I got in touch with Ran Shmweli, who was catering at the time, and we basically produced a brioche chalet on Fridays with butter inside. That’s how it started.” He started professionally in the production of traditional jewish shales.

When he wrote his own bread book (2016) Breaking Bread, Judge realized he didn’t know much about the history of traditional pastries and decided to find out more about it: I found out that people make the dough at home and bring it to the bakery we bake for them, and the original shapes are different from the shale we know.”

The legendary suit of the “Bread” bakery is the Round Shelleh. “To this day, we only sell it on Thursdays and Fridays,” he says. “There have been attempts to sell it on weekdays, but we’ve found that people are only looking for challah on weekends. I’ve been running challah baking workshops for years and find that God is interesting to everyone.”

Behind Schrötmann’s bakery stood Eran Schrötmann, who was a photographer, sculptor and even assistant chef in Paris, until one morning he decided his passion was in dough. “I work about 16 hours a day,” he says. “There is such a trend in making shortcuts. There are a lot of bakeries using gluten powders and flavor enhancers because high quality flour is expensive, and there is no manpower, so the shortcut is to take the cheap raw materials and improve the baking. But I decided if I did, I would. I do it the hard way.Hand-kneading, stretching and folding the dough is part of the secret.

Shalah Baladi is very juicy and made with only natural ingredients. I would use eggs – no matter how much they cost – and never protein substitutes. I know there is someone out there who does this and it is horrible in my eyes. My bread looks raw, crunchy, and has less consistency, and the loaves are less similar to each other despite having a full consistency in taste. This is a must in my eyes.”

terrifying and amazing
The Corona era has contributed to the re-emergence of the popularity of challah, which is known to have caused many to enter the kitchen and start baking. Network announcers and bakers who have made shilling a specialty include names such as Ron Yuchananov, Efrat Lichtenstein, blogger Kruti and Keren Agam, owner of the Married Bakery blog. Ajam says: “I did not come from a house in which they make God or make shovels.” “We never congratulated the shilling, but I was always interested in trying and making God, succeeding in the dough, and knowing how to knit beautifully.”

Shallah flour (Photo: Keren Ajam)Shallah flour (Photo: Keren Ajam)

Even before Corona, Lake conducted baking workshops, but with the outbreak of the plague, she realized she needed to quit smoking and got stuck with a huge amount of flour. “I saw the people around me stop work and get into trouble, and I said to myself: I’ll take the flour and make God for the neighborhood. I live in Jaffa and there are many in need.”

I posted the project in my live Facebook community. “The first publication went viral and so was the demand,” she says. “During the first lockdown, I went out with the kids, we went house to house and God distributed. It spread far and wide and reached other neighborhoods too. Other people decided to bake at home and share. At the same time they started asking for recipe and advice, and I realized that a lot of people never touched” and started baking. The biggest fear is mostly from yeast. It was interesting to see people go through this process.”

The start of Daniel Kitsis (Photo: Daniel Kitsis)The start of Daniel Kitsis (Photo: Daniel Kitsis)

Chef Daniel Kitsis, a chef from the reality cooking show “Chef Games”, also took advantage of the Corona period to work with dough. “Knowledge of the material is also from countless attempts,” she says. “I didn’t know what the end result would be, but what I eventually did was put food on challah dough, which is a very agreeable dough. It can get both sweet and salty. I made dishes on or in God.”

Kitsis bought a blender and started baking. “One day I made some statements and put them on a sheet that I made,” she says. “It turned out so tasty that in the evening I went out to meet friends and gave them a taste.” At that time she started posting challahs for sale on her Instagram page. “It quickly gained momentum, the followers grew, and I sold everything I baked. I didn’t think about it in business, I just waited for the app to finish.”

Stroemann Bakery (Photo: Eran Stroemann)Stroemann Bakery (Photo: Eran Stroemann)

But when the challah ended, she was already elsewhere professionally: “I always wanted to be independent, and without noticing I set up a home-based pastry business. I started selling 30 units of challah on Friday, pre-ordered, bought another oven, and it became my home Entirely a bakery. Then came the option to use a good friend’s pizzeria, who decided to close the place during the second closing, and that’s where I opened the pop-up.”

Soon, long queues formed in front of the Kitsis platform. “I enlisted the facts and we started selling,” she says. “At first, I only sold by pre-order. I remember the day I said I didn’t want to work on pre-orders. I said let’s invite people to buy, women are standing up and walking out. I didn’t have the capabilities yet, 100 people already arrived. I realized I I was socially anxious. I see a lot of people, and I also suddenly realized the tremendous power of a product and me as a brand.”

Kitsis is currently working in cooperation with the flour mill established in Ashdod and organizes baking workshops and events. It also continues the formatting popup. “When I think about that time, I think it was very stressful and stressful and amazing all at the same time,” she says. “All the feelings were that big, and for half a year I’ve been doing it every week. The preparations started on Monday, and on Thursday night we were baking everything. Friday was a two-hour window where all the food we prepared was sold out. I had five or seven types From Hilla.” They would run and go out on the weekends. It wasn’t just for the Kiddush of Viznitz or the Friday market, it was a dish in itself.”

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